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Kos: An Archaeologist’s Dream

Our first visit to Kos was entirely spontaneous for a long weekend away. We didn’t find a lot of information about the island, beyond some history involving Hippocrates. Surprisingly, Kos had a lot to offer! In our opinion, it also has some of the best beaches of the Greek islands. We loved Kos so much we returned with our extended family a few years later and enjoyed it just as much a second time!

Where To Stay

Several cities are listed as the hot spots for tourists to Kos, including Kos Town, Kefalos, Tigaki, and some of the big family resorts scattered inland. We chose Kos Town for our first four day trip (long weekend), and a few years later (2024) stayed in Kefalos for four nights, followed by five nights in Kos Town.

Kos Town

Kos Town is small, but has a lot to offer. For history buffs, one can spend hours wandering around ruins scattered around the town. Most access to these ruins is free. The one exception is the Roman Villa, but it’s worth the 6 Euro entry fee.

We stayed at Triton Hotel in Kos Town. It was perfectly located next to lots of restaurants and close to the main road if you want to hop in your car and explore. They also had an excellent buffet breakfast and a nice pool with clean, air conditioned rooms.

As a family, we stayed at Theo & MS Luxurious Apartments and had a wonderful experience. If you would like to stay out of hotels and go a bit more local we would highly recommend them. They were great hosts, stuffed our refrigerators full, and gave all of the kids gifts on our last day.

If you want to stay outside of Kos Town, we would highly recommend the sleepy beach town of Kefalos. We stayed at Irene Studios as we were looking for a place to accommodate large families. It was very basic accommodation, but we spent most of our time on the beach and in the water near Agrio Stefano.

North Or South?

There are several small hotels scattered along the rocky beach by Kos Town. If you stay further northwest you will have easy access to the sandy Lambi Beach, covered in rental umbrellas and with several restaurants within a few meters. Staying further south puts you closer to the calmer and cheaper area of Paradiso Beach, where umbrellas are 12 Euros per person (two free drinks included as of 2024).

Kos Town has a wonderful pathway along the shore that is great for bikes, walking, and early morning or evening runs. You can get to the water at almost any point, and it is easy to rent bikes to get around town more quickly.

Tigaki

We briefly checked out Tigaki, as we heard it was sleepier and more romantic than Kos Town. It was much smaller with bigger, quieter beaches, but there wasn’t as much to see. We were happy with our decision to stay in Kos Town and Kefalos.

What To Eat In Kos Town

Most places we visited had excellent food and drink choices. We stuck mostly to traditional Greek restaurants, which we can of course highly recommend when one visits Greece!

Top on our list was the Hirodion. Although it isn’t next to the beach like the other trendier restaurants, it had the local Greek family vibe, while being owned by and run by a family. We felt extremely welcome, as well as enjoying some of the best moussaka and ouzo of our trip. The Stadium Restaurant was also quite good, with an excellent selection of Greek food, wine, and desserts, all for good prices.

If you’re looking for a more romantic place on the water, make a reservation at Astakos, right on the beach. We requested a table by the water and enjoyed some wonderful seafood and drinks here while watching the sunset.

Another hip and trendy restaurant, the Crepa Crepa, had some excellent traditional Greek pancakes, as well as some creative lemonades. Every place we ate at had delicious food.

Don’t Drink The Water

It is not advised to drink the water from the tap anywhere in Greece. Thankfully, cheap water is available in most convenience stores. You may, however, shower and brush your teeth without concern.

Where To Go

Kos Town has plenty of ruins in every corner. You will often find piles of ancient carved stone with no information on street corners – forgotten ruins from thousands of years ago. A recent earthquake in 2017 has changed the features of many of these ruins, however. It may be that the photos you see in your Google searches don’t quite match up to reality.

Hippocrates Tree

The Hippocrates Tree is famously known as the tree where Hippocrates taught his students the art of medicine. The roots of the tree are around 2,500 years old, while the branches are quite a bit younger. Due to the earthquake, the tree has suffered some damage and is now supported by metal rods and isn’t a very beautiful site.

The Loggia Mosque

The Hippocrates Tree is right next to the Loggia Mosque – what was formerly quite a beautiful mosque. Due to damage from the earthquake, the tower is under scaffolding and it looked like there was perhaps no funding to actually repair the building. It was a sad disappointment.

Gymnasium

The Gymnasium is a quite impressive expanse of ruins that you can access for free. There are several beautiful mosaics that are protected from the weather, and ancient roads which are still more or less intact. Some of the columns that were previously standing before the 2017 earthquake have now toppled. It was well worth a visit, however!

Altar of Dionysus

This area came up on us as a bit of a surprise. The ruins are mostly integrated into a sort of park. One can stroll freely around, sit on an ancient pillar, and have a beer or a chat with friends. It was a bit baffling that it wasn’t more strongly preserved, but fascinating to see.

Roman Odeon

The Roman Odeon is another surprisingly free site. It’s a small, but acoustically impressive entertainment theater which is mostly intact. Underneath the theater there are some information points in various rooms. There was a lady monitoring people who came in but no one was charged entry.

Roman Villa

Outside of the restored Roman villa are many chunks of pillars, old carved stones, and other items that it appears authorities are still sorting. The real vision is inside the building, which is a restored version of what they believe the villa that was excavated might have looked like. There are many walls, pillars, and courtyards that are still standing, as well as a functioning pond. It was a fascinating glimpse into how the wealthy on Kos lived nearly 3,000 years ago, and remarkably well preserved. It was the only place in Kos Town where we had to pay an entry fee, but if ancient Roman and Greek ruins are of interest to you, then it is well worth the small entry fee.

Asklepion

The Asklepion is located outside of Kos Town and can be accessed by bus, car, or bike (if you want to brave the hot Mediterranean sun). This was the most impressive ancient structure we saw on the island.

Besides the Roman Villa, the Asklepion also requires an entrance fee of 8 Euros (the fee hadn’t changed from 2020 to 2024). As a thank you for visiting the first time, we received a couple of free pins that said, “I visited Greece in 2020.” We recommend visiting either right when they open, or an hour or two before closing so you beat the heat of the day. This is one of the only Greek ruins I have visited that is surrounded by a forest, however, so there is always a chance to sit in the shade somewhere.

The Asklepion’s size is mind boggling. It would have been an absolutely incredible sight to see in ancient times. The fact that it is also over 3,000 years old was hard to believe. Photos really can’t justify how majestic this place had once been.

As many other ancient sites suffered after the 2017 earthquake, the Asklepion also had some damage. The sheer size of the place is worth the visit, though. We also learned more about the worship of Asklepion, who, despite being a Greek mythology fanatic, I had never heard of.

Asklepion The Demigod

Asklepion was the first Greek demigod who was a doctor. His name means “to cut open,” because when he was born his mother had to be cut open (one of the first mentioned cesareans) in order for him to live. His skill was said to have been so great that he could even raise people from the dead.

How An Asklepion Functioned

An Asklepion was a place that was established for people to be healed. Visitors would be put into a deep (usually hallucinogenic) sleep. It was assumed that Asklepion himself would visit the patient in their dreams and give them their cure. Upon awakening, the patient would tell a priest his dream. The priest would then interpret and help in instructing the patient on their cure, which usually involved visiting a bath or gymnasium.

How To Get To The Asklepion

A word to those who might be driving to the Asklepion: if you are using Google Maps, you will be led to the back gate entrance, which is not where you can actually enter. Once you are close, follow the signs to the Asklepion. They are much more accurate than Google Maps! In finding this out, we did, however, discover a random archeological dig nearby that was unmarked but looked like it could have some significance.

Also, if you are hoping for snacks or something to drink, there is a little (slightly overpriced) shop at the entrance for refreshments.

Zia: The Mountain Town

Zia is worth a visit, especially if you have a car. It is possible to visit this mountain town by bus, but you are restricted to the bus timetable. There are special buses that drive up just for the sunset, as Zia is one of the most famous places on Kos to watch the sunset. There are multiple restaurants facing west with gorgeous views of the islands and sea beyond. We would recommend taking your time to stroll the tiny town, do a little shopping or sight seeing, then make a reservation for dinner (very unlikely you will be able to get a table during the high season otherwise) and enjoy the sunset.

Sunset from Zia

We had one of the best dinners we experienced in Kos at Oromedon. Our extended family of 12 wasn’t able to be seated right next to the overlook as we were too many, but a couple or table of four might be able to make a reservation with a sunset view. No one seemed to mind the kids traipsing around the restaurant, nor the multiple people finding spots to take selfies once the sun started to set.

There is a longer overlook next to the road just after the carpark where you can enjoy the sunset without going to a restaurant, too. If you drive, make sure you park at the carpark just before the town as there is nowhere in town to park unless you have a handicapped sticker.

The Best Beaches

As swimmers and triathletes, we are always checking out the beaches in Greece. We are looking not only for shade, but also for the best water for swimming.

Basilica Agrio Stefano

This beach was, in our opinion, the most beautiful, sandy beach we visited. There were plenty of umbrellas to sit under (10 Euro fee per umbrella), a little kiosk that sold excellent iced coffees and soft serve ice cream, crystal clear, shallow water, a beautiful island to swim around, and ancient Greek ruins overlooking the bay. The only things missing were showers and toilets!

The temple ruins really made this beach extra Greek. Kids and adults were sunning themselves and playing around them freely. The island, Kastri, had a little Greek church with a bell that you can swim over to and ring, plus some fun cliffs to jump off of into the water. We were also able to swim around the island (roughly 1,200m from the beach to swim around the island and then back to the beach). The waters around the island were unbelievably clear. There were lots of interesting fish to look at, and colored stones to collect on the island. I did get stung by a tiny jellyfish on the way back to the beach once, but other than a little welt that was our only water incident.

It is a really perfect beach for families, because the water is so shallow and clear. There is also a restaurant on the road nearby (Kompologaki Restaurant) with great traditional Greek food if you want to hang out at the beach for the day and have a meal at some point. If you don’t like the vibe there, there are a few other restaurants nearby to check out as well.

Paradiso Beach

This beach is walking or biking distance from Kos Town. It is quite cheap to rent umbrellas, and the rocky shore means that the water is clear. It was set back a bit from the road so was more peaceful than going to the beach in town. Don’t confuse Paradiso Beach with Paradise Beach, which is closer to the Agrio Stefano Beach!

Therma

If you want a truly unique experience, you can take the bus or rent a car and head to Therma, where hot springs mix with the ocean waters. If you decide to take a bus, we were surprised at how punctual they were – even leaving early at times! Don’t be late, or you will be waiting a while. The bus timetable was quite clear at the ticket station in Kos Town.

How To Get There

If you drive to Therma, it is possible to drive right down to the beach, although our research said that it was a grueling 20 minute walk down to the springs. Even if you park by the road, it definitely is not a 20 minute walk unless you are extremely slow. We made it down in around 5 minutes without rushing after parking by the road. There were places to park much closer to the beach, however. Just make sure your car will make it back up the gravel road.

Tip: Visit in the evening so you get some shade in the hot springs!

The hot springs are actually extremely hot, and there are stones arranged around their source so you know where they are. It is said that the minerals in the water help to heal ailments. There were plenty of people lounging in the shallow pool. We tried to do a hot soak, then a cold swim in the ocean. The cold swim afterward didn’t really work since the warmer water really mixes in with the ocean outside of the pool.

When To Visit Therma

It would be best to go around sunset, because the sun hits the beach until quite late in the evening, even though Therma is on the east side of the island. We were there around 5-6pm and the sun was still shining on the hot springs. The beach isn’t the best or prettiest with all the rocks, but there is a small section with a kiosk and umbrellas to rent if you’d prefer more comfort. There is also a small massage station near the springs in case you want more of a rustic spa experience.

How To Get Around

As mentioned above, the buses are pretty reliable and go to all of the popular places and towns in the island. If you would rather be more relaxed, we do suggest renting a car. If you aren’t comfortable with manual you may need to make a special request as we didn’t see any automatic cars during our visit. Also popular are the mopeds and stripped down roadsters, but we preferred having air conditioning! If you are from a non-EU country, make sure you have an international driver’s license as some places will be quite strict about driving licenses.

Bikes are extremely easy to rent and were everywhere. There are many bike friendly paths throughout the island, and we saw many serious road bikers and mountain bikers everywhere on the island. As triathletes, this was really a great island for us to train!

If you want to visit other islands, a good site to check out for the ferry schedule is FerryScanner.

If you want to just stay in one town for your visit, such as Kos Town, you can easily get around by foot. It is not a big city and they are used to pedestrians.

Kos During Covid

We must note that we visited Kos during late August 2020, while Covid was still a great concern. Most restaurants and staff were wonderful about adhering to health guidelines. Hand sanitizer was readily available, as well as strict rules about wearing masks indoors.

We were told that they only had 60% of the tourists that they usually have. Many restaurants were hurting. One beautiful restaurant we ate at had absolutely delicious traditional Greek food and wonderful service. Unfortunately, the whole Friday night we were there, we were the only people eating at the restaurant besides one other family. Many hotels were closed, and none we saw were working at full capacity. Everyone was extremely grateful we were there, despite what was going on. We were happy to do our part in helping the tourism industry.

Empty restaurants everywhere

Kos: The Family Island

Kos wouldn’t be our first island to visit when we go back to Greece as we feel we have many more to explore. It is an excellent choice for families and those interested in ancient Greek ruins. The beaches are calm, with clear water, there are many ancient ruins to explore, and as usual, the Greek people are so friendly and welcoming you will want to ultimately come back!

Kos is the first Greek island we have visited more than once, however. We visited with our toddler, and my sisters and their families and kids and it was the perfect family trip with plenty of entertainment for the kids and adults. We look forward to coming back again in the future to enjoy the laid-back, fun beaches and beautiful waters.