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Hiking the Nyiragongo Volcano 

Nyiragongo is an active volcano (elevation: 3,470 metres (11,380 ft) just north of Goma, DRC. Unfortunately, due to political unrest in the region it isn’t on many tourist’s radar. The trek up the mountain is also a difficult one with all of the loose volcanic rock near the top, but your reward is spending the night on the top of a volcano with a view of an active lava bed!

Nyiragongo from a distance

Hiking along a lava trail as we break out of the jungle towards the summit

What you should bring:

• A small, lightweight, frameless, waterproof back/day pack
• Light, waterproof hiking or walking boots, or shoes with grip or treaded soles
• Long pants and a long sleeved shirt
• Short sleeved shirt/tank top to layer underneath
• Cooler clothing to layer under your warmer clothes
• Waterproof rain pants, lightweight raincoat, or poncho with a hood
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen
• Water for two days
• Snacks
• Ramen, other light meal options
• Cash, carefully concealed – everything functions through USD and there aren’t local ATMs

Trekking through the jungle

Finding tiny bits of color in the jungle

Other tips:

I recommend buying your hiking food and snack options in Kigali, Rwanda if you are going the Rwanda route to the DRC, otherwise buy your snacks and other food items outside of the country as it is difficult to get non-perishables in Goma.

I also recommend that you be very careful when you use your camera. I do not have many photos from this trip because of the unrest in the country, and photos taken could have been seen as an aggressive move, especially in populated areas.

Glimpses of Goma

Holding on for dear life as we drive through some terrible roads!

How we did it

We did a four day weekend, flying from Nairobi to Kigali and then taking a bus to Gisenyi on the border of the DRC. The border crossing was handled by the company we chose to help us with our hike and was a lengthy process. Basically, we had to present our passports and yellow fever certificate, pay $100 for the entry visa, and then wait for them to process everything with our guide. The border is highly controlled and no photos are allowed.

The border crossing from Rwanda to the DRC – this was the Rwandan side.

We stayed our first night in Goma and hiked up the volcano the next day. We stayed overnight at the top of the volcano and then hiked back down after breakfast the next day. We visited the markets in Goma and then drove back across the border, stayed the night in Gisenyi, then took a bus to Kigali and flew back to Nairobi.

Fishermen in Lake Kivu off the coast of Goma

More street views of Goma from the car

The Hike

We started out at the foot of Nyiragongo at the ranger’s station. We needed armed guards to travel with us, not only to scare off the gorillas, but also to protect us just in case there were armed militants hiding in the forests in the area. If that thought alone doesn’t deter you, read on!

The signs at the entrance to the hike for the volcano were riddled with bullets

The start of the hike was gradual and fairly easy, although it was quite hot and we were basically walking through a rainforest with lots of mud and wet surfaces. We took a few breaks for snacks and water and were treated to some fantastic views. It was most interesting to see the devastation that the volcano caused back in 2002 that Goma never really recovered from. A trail of rocks and hardened lava split the mountain down towards the city. There were many smashed houses, as well as completely devastated roads and farmland.

Lava tubes on the side of the volcano

As we neared the top, the rainforest gave way to loose volcanic rock. This was quite tricky to navigate and I was very glad that I had some ankle support in my boots. We did have some people in our group who braved the slopes with sneakers, but I would recommend boots. The volcanic rock could really rip up your shoes if you aren’t careful.

Nearing the top of Nyiragongo in heavy mist

The last part of the hike was definitely the most difficult, not just because we were tired, but because of the surfaces we were hiking. A few of the people we were hiking with ended up getting a little altitude sickness as well, although this is not one of the highest mountains I’ve hiked at 3,470 m (11,380 ft)!

Our campsite at the top of the volcano (the smaller mouth of the volcano was just below us)

At the top of the volcano it is quite chilly, but we were excited to see the lava lake far beneath us in the crater. Don’t expect to have a crystal clear view of the lava due to all the sulfur in the air, but when it did clear it was fascinating to watch. This was likely among the most incredible sights I’ve experienced!

From the top of the Nyiragongo volcano, a small glimpse of the lava lake below over 1,000 ft (400m) below us

We made dinner over some campfires and our guides went hunting and brought back “meat.” They didn’t tell us what it was but we were an adventurous group and ate it anyway! We stayed in little lean-tos that were pretty well insulated against the wind, but make sure you bring a warm sleeping bag as it gets quite cold at night.

Glimpses of cooking over the campfire at the top of Nyiragongo

Dinner at the top of Nyiragongo

In the morning, we ate breakfast and hiked back down – a much easier feat than hiking up!

More tips for hiking Nyiragongo

• Wear layers! It is very warm at the bottom but at the top it can be around the freezing point. Also, make sure you bring extra clothes in case you get wet. We had some rain at the top but were overall lucky with our whole two days hiking.
• You can hire a porter if you don’t trust yourself to carry your own gear and hike to the top. It costs $24/porter, but make sure you give them a tip at the end as well.
• Drink water! Make sure you are carrying more than you think you need for two days. There is absolutely nowhere to fill up your water bottles on the hike.
• Wear sturdy hiking boots. The lava rock can be quite sharp and the loose rock can give way easily so it’s good to have thick tread and ankle support.
• Again, I cannot stress enough to be very careful when taking photos. We tried to be respectful and only take photos of our hike up the volcano. Our guides told us when it was safe to take photos outside of that, but it is a good reminder to enjoy the actual experience, rather than seeing the country through your camera lens.

The views were incredible, but I was shooting with a tiny digital camera (pre-Nikon days) and the sulphur and mist didn’t help with getting a clear view. This is a view of another opening of the volcano mouth below us.

Hiking through the jungle and mist

Sunset over Lake Kivu in Goma, DRC

Thoughts

Although I had a great experience and thought that the DRC was a fascinating, beautiful place, I was saddened by the fact that there is still so much political unrest in the region. The overall feeling of unease and tension from the people we saw and interacted with in Goma made the country feel unsafe (it is) and it felt like everything could explode at any moment. Our only relief came when we were hiking the volcano. The DRC is not a place I would recommend for a vacation, or a relaxing trip, though it has absolutely stunning views. I honestly would not recommend it to the average traveler. I was able to visit because I lived in the region and had good connections. We were also advised on when the region was more stable so that we were not traveling there during a more dangerous time.

A beautiful crane in the midst of the rubble in Goma

It is important to do your research when visiting a place like the DRC. Countries like this can be enlightening, soul searching, and eye-opening places to visit. A place like the DRC is also a good reminder that not every place that a travel blogger visits may be for you. Hiking Nyiragongo is definitely more for the adventure traveler or journalist until the region finds peace.

What are your thoughts on the DRC? Have you been there before? How did it feel to you?

If you’re interested in traveling there, save the Pin below so you can reference this post later!